This update post is intended for a variety of audiences; 1) Current owners of the Model X 2) Anyone considering a model X, and 3) All those of you who enjoy sneering at all those who took the plunge and bought one. I hope you all consider this packed with useful, entertaining and realistic bits of info from over 10K miles of experience with one.

1. When slower speeds are detected downstream, the DMSs warn drivers of the slower traffic ahead. If an incident has occurred, the DMSs will warn drivers of slower traffic ahead in order to prevent chain-reaction collisions.Presently, the system only employs DMSs and HARS to communicate road conditions to travelers.
2. The sensor is small (approx 2x3cm) and comes with two cable options: USB and RS232. USB has advantage of power source while in case of RS232 you have to provide it extra but RSR232 is often more reliable and easier to integrate in small embedded devices. So far I tried the USB cable option on Windows 7 only.

First let’s get right to the reference to Maslow in the title. There’s something very soul searching that comes from driving a car capable of 0-60 MPH in 3.2 seconds and 50-100 in 2.5 seconds, that you spent a ridiculous amount of money on, but most of your long distance driving time is spent in the far right lane (you know that lane referenced in the signs posted that say “slower traffic keep right”) being passed continuously by every four cylinder car on the road. To make it all even more humiliating the passengers in these cars are always looking at you like you should have your hazard lights on due to the obvious malfunction the car is experiencing. Either that or they’re just outright laughing at you as they zip by, many times with a speed differential of at least 20 MPH. This is all due to the inverse correlation of the speed your travelling and the range efficiency of the Model X and the spacing of the Supercharging stations along my most frequented trip route (SF Bay area to and from Central Oregon). By my calculations, for every 5 MPH you drive above ~55 MPH you take roughly a 10% hit in range efficiency. At 55 MPH you roughly get the published range (in the model X that’s 250 miles) per full charge. Not counting the fact Tesla almost forces you to only charge to 80% of the capacity or 225 miles. This to “preserve the battery life”. Yikes!! With charging stations positioned from 85 miles to 125 miles apart along major freeways like I5 in CA this leaves you either stopping at each one or trying to skip one and do the white knuckle drive hoping you have enough range and just sit in the right hand lane like your towing a 18 wheel shipping container, while watching the Prius’s and low end Korean cars zipping past you like you’re standing still. If you’re not well up Maslow’s needs hierarchy you will be likely looking for the next bridge to just drive off and put yourself out of your misery. Then try this trip with Kidney Stones and see how much fun it is. Uh Huh!!

Speaking of the Super charging experience…

My windows 10 machine (realtek RTL8192CU wireless lan 802.11n usb 2.0) download speed 1.51 mb, upload 19.74mb and ping 12 and can only connect through 2.4GHz network. My apple laptop and imac next to the pc both run 200mb download over 5GHz network and between 50 and 60mb over the 2.4GHz with also only 20mb upload. Why is it that the PC is so slow.

Last week when I was driving back from Oregon to SF I stopped at the charging station in Corning CA. It was 109 degrees cool when I got out of the car and placed the charging connector into the car. The connector had been resting in its holster in the shade. When I returned 20 minutes later to pull it out and go on my way it was so hot (thanks to the electrical current and the 109 degree temps) you literally could not touch it. There were 4 of us at this bank of charging ports all looking at each other wondering what we’re going to do now. We could wait until the sun goes down… Even if you wrapped your shirt around the handle it still burned right through it. Finally I went into the local restaurant and said to the owner “listen, there are 4 of us with Tesla’s parked at the charging ports and we can’t get the port connectors out of our cars. Do you happen to have an oven mitt we can borrow”. YES you guessed it this was Maslow moment number 2!!

Oh before I forget to mention these charging stations are wired in pairs (1A, 1B, 2A, 2B, etc.) the 170 miles per 30 minutes charge (claimed by Tesla) only goes to the combined pair of 1A and 1B. So, if cars are parked and using both 1A and 1B simultaneously you’re only getting 85 miles per 30 minutes charge. Try finding that little fine print detail anywhere on the Tesla website. I would guess 90% of the Tesla owners I chat with while our cars are charging are unaware of this. They just concluded the charging port was malfunctioning. As more Teslas fill the roads and the stations get busier this will become more of a problem.

Now let’s get back to what the Tesla Model X is and isn’t…

Everything it shares in common with the Model S and with SpaceX is well tested , brilliant and works as advertised. This includes most of the really breakthrough aspects to the Car (calling it a “Car” is a real stretch) like the engine, the handling, the braking, the seats, the panoramic glass, the auto-pilot/cruise control, the air conditioning, etc. It’s all the little things that you’ve grown accustomed to after 20+ years of driving high end “cars” that are woefully missing or lacking. I’ve experienced over 25 issues just with exterior moldings, fittings, weather stripping, etc. To me the exterior of the car looks like it was hand assembled as an 8th grade shop project. Pretty much anywhere two outer body pieces come together they do so with no alignment. Looks like someone just eyeballed each piece and where it should be positioned and attached it. Many of these have now been fixed after two separate trips into the factory for about a week each trip. Some still remain outstanding while we wait for re-engineered parts to come from suppliers that meet the spec. Another very annoying feature missing is any way to hard wire connect media devices to the Car stereo system. No Aux cord!! They expect all media devices to connect via Bluetooth. This means every time you have a passenger who wants to connect their iPhone it has to be paired via Bluetooth then I need to remove it from the paired list later on (more on why this removal needs to happen later). There is no way to simply plug it in quickly and hit play. There are USB ports all over the interior of the car but are only good for charging or if you happen to have a thumb drive (do any of you carry your music around on a thumb drive) with music you can play the music. Really!! Also the car microphone was located assuming the driver was sitting about 12 inches away. When the driver seat is all the way back the microphone works very poorly and the fidelity is not sufficient to leave messages on most voicemail recorders or communicate via speech to text conversion apps like Cortana or Siri.

The next major area lacking is seating capacity for 6 adults. Just can’t be done if the adults are all 5’10” and above. Or everyone is willing to sit side saddle on the middle and rear row seats with their legs hanging out into the middle isle. I have the 2 captains chairs configuration in the middle row. Thank goodness I chose that configuration or there would be absolutely now way to get anyone with legs into the back row seats. Maybe that’s why they did not configure any arm rests in the middle row towards the middle of the car. 🙂 In fact to be honest it seems like the back row of seats was an afterthought. Moving the back row of seats up and down is as inconvenient and problematic as I’ve ever seen. Getting them to drop down from the upright position is fine once you learn the double click feature on the release button. It’s getting them back up that’s the back breaker. There is virtually no way to do it from the back. You have to come around to the front and open the Falcon door and do it from there. Opening the falcon wing doors is always an experience. No telling what’s going to happen or how long it will take or how many people will come watch. Sometimes they sense obstacles in the way that aren’t there and just start acting like a 2 year old that will not accept “NO” for an answer. They simply won’t open or close. Then there are the times they don’t sense an obvious obstacle like a human being (my daughter for one) and they open anyway pinning my daughter up against the car next to us. Yikes! hate it when that happens. That drew some ooo’s and ahhh’s from the crowd to say the least. All the doors operate exclusively via electric motors. No manual option. To initiate the door opening process you have to press on the external embedded chrome strip in the door. you need to press right in the middle and hard. My mother is not strong enough to depress the strip enough to activate the door opening. I’ve now taken to getting in the car first and opening the doors exclusively from the touchscreen. After of course making sure everyone is clear of danger. Not easy to do once you’re in the car. I think you get the picture. Once the doors are all open getting in and out is a breeze and very enjoyable. Opening and closing all the doors safely is always an adventure to say the least.

Let’s quickly hit on the computer that sits at the heart of the electronics. Last week I was noticing the NAV had drastically slowed down to the point it was issuing turn commands well after we had passed the turn off then taking 30 seconds or more to re-calculate the route and give us another turn command. I called Tesla support only to find out the memory had filled up and was (like any computer) not able to run the major apps properly. They said “well have you cleared the browser cache recently?”. I said “what???” Turns out I had left the on board browser on the ESPN site and it was continuously updating the PGA scores taking up more and more memory until it squeezed out the NAV. It was then a Microsoft like experience. Hold down the two wheel buttons simultaneously for 30 seconds to reboot the display, then go into the browser and delete the cache and make sure it was set to the Google start page. Does this sound like something you would expect to do in a car?? Then I needed to hold down two other buttons simultaneously for another 30 seconds to reset the dashboard which runs off the same computer. After all this the NAV was back in action. By the way, overall I love the NAV.

I can’t finish this blog post without recounting the now infamous key story. When I was first delivered the car and handed the keys I have to say my reaction was “REALLY!!”. this is the key. It’s a cheap plastic model replica of a Model X. Looks shiny and cool but also looks like it will last about one or two good drops as you get out of the car or leap for your daughter as the falcon Wing is about to pin her against the car next to you. anyway, I was just finishing up a round of golf up in Central Oregon a month ago on a very hot day and walked up to the car and stuck my hand in the pocket where I had put the key only to pull my hand out with a fist full of 12 pieces into which the key had broken into. As the gravity of this situation sunk in it was as I call it a “Martian moment”. OMG! How am I going to grow enough potatoes to fix this problem. I have no spare key up here in Oregon. I called the Tesla roadside assistance and they said they can unlock the car remotely but aren’t legally allowed to start it. They said just use the iPhone Tesla App and you can start it and run it until you get a new key. Welllll, this would be great except as all of you know by now I don’t have an iPhone and even this will not motivate me to get one. Hmm. Well after more contemplation on how I would grow all these potatoes we came up with the idea that one of the kids working behind the desk in the pro shop who had an iPhone would download the App, I would give him my login credentials and he would be on call to start my car when needed until I got a new key. It worked!! Got the new key the next day and to this day the kid in the pro shop has not decided to track my car and quietly remove it from my garage never to be seen again. I hope he does not read this blog and get any new ideas.

Last major issue of note is the Spare tire. Rather the lack of one. I realize they’re not the only car to ditch the spare tire so maybe this one is in the trend line of where cars are going. I spend enough time on stretches of road in areas of the country that have no cell coverage that riding with no spare tire just gives me the Willies. So I bought an extra wheel. Not knowing how huuuge (as D Trump says) this thing was. With the two rear seats down it literally takes up the whole back area leaving no room for anything else. So I ended up buying a spare tire rack to mount on the hitch I included in my configuration (fortunately as it was not intended for this purpose). Bought the following rack (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009YIE1O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and extender (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BROATE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) since without the extender the rear lift-gate does not clear the attached wheel. I then bought 3 quarter inch bolts and first bolted them to the rack in the proper position to be able to drop the wheel on, then set the wheel on them and used locking nuts to bolt the wheel on the rack and leave the whole thing assembled when I take it on and off when needed. Actually works very well. Haven’t had to use it yet and hopefully won’t have to but my mind is at peace…

So where does all this leave me in terms of my enthusiasm to carry out this early adopter journey. Well, I’ve taken some body blows and my ego has definitely been put in a new place but I’m soldiering on. Tesla remains committed to making everything right. August 10th I’m taking it in again for the third time and they seem committed to fixing the remaining dozen or so issues. I really think we’re getting to the end of the long trail of fixable issues. I’ve had it for 6 months and have over 10K miles on the car. There will undoubtedly be some things I will just need to live with and work around but the technology advancements are still so overwhelmingly breakthrough I feel I have to get to the end of this journey and see where it drops me off.

Stay tuned.

• Reading Duration:3-5 minutes.
• Applies to:Increase USB transfer speed, fix USB transfer speed slow issue, make USB transfer faster.

'Does anyone know how to speed up USB transfer? I tried to transfer files from the computer to my USB drive. It lasted for 2hours, stuck at 99% complete, remaining 5 seconds. How do I make the file transferring speed faster?'

'USB transfer speed slow' is one of the commonest issues that may be encountered by users. To address this issue, we collected 6 ways for Windows 10/8/7 users to try and speed up the USB transfer rate immediately:

Also Read:

Overview of Slow USB Transfer Speed (Causes & Symptoms)

Generally, the USB transfer speed will slow down when you have one of the following issues:

• Unstable power supply in the USB port.
• Bad sectors slow down USB.
• USB file system slows in transferring big files.
• USB port is old, not compatible with a new USB drive.
• USB drive gets full, slows down in transferring files.

So how to judge if your USB is with a normal transferring speed or a slow one? Follow and check this out:

Ideally, USB 3.0 has a minimum transfer speed of 400MB per second while USB 2.0 is 35MB per second.

If your USB meets one of the above conditions, be it frozen in transferring files or doesn't reach its average speed, your USB is having slow data transfer rate.

How to Speed Up USB Transfer Rate in Windows 10/8/7 (6 Fixes)

Applies to: Speed up USB transfer windows 10, fix inconsistent USB transfer speed, increase USB-C transfer speed, USB 3.0 is slow.

To make the file transfer speed on your USB faster, try the recommended tips as listed below one by one. You'll successfully increase the transfer speed of a USB on Windows 10/8/7 on your own.

Method 1. Change USB Port, Connect Your USB to Rear Port (for Desktop Only)

Like most users, you may connect your USB to the front ports on the desktop computer to transfer files. However, the power supply of front ports may become unstable after using for a long period. Thus, the transfer speed goes down.

To speed up your USB transfer speed immediately, you can connect your USB flash drive to one of the rear ports on your computer instead. Smc driver download. The rear ports are soldered on the motherboard of your computer, which provides a more stable power supply to your USB.

Here are the steps to connect USB to the rear port and speed up USB file transfer:

Step 1. Cancel the transferring process first.

Step 2.Right-click to eject the USB drive from the taskbar.

Step 3. Unplug the USB drive and reconnect it to the computer's back (rear) USB port.

After this, retry to transfer your files again and check out if the transferring speed goes up. Sometimes, connecting USB or external drive to the rear port also helps to solve problems like 'please insert a disk into removable disk', 'external hard drive light blinking but not working', etc.

If you think it's inconvenient, you can use a USB hub that also works to speed up your USB transfer.

Method 2. Recover Data, Format to Fix Soft Bad Sectors and Speed Up USB

Sometimes, your USB flash drive may slow down in reading and writing files with a certain number of soft bad sectors on your drive. The best way out is to recover files out of your USB and format to fix all the bad sectors so as to speed up USB.

Download Slower Traffic Keep Right (stkr) Usb Devices Driver Download

To do so, you have two phrases to go:

#1. Ocz rd400 driver download. Recover and Get All Files Out of USB

Reliable disk recovery software - EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard can fully scan your USB and get all data out of the USB flash drive or USB external disk with its quick and advanced scanning modes.

To make your USB faster in transferring files, follow the steps to get existing files and lost data from your USB first:

Step 1. Run USB data recovery software.

Connect the USB flash drive to your computer and launch EaseUS USB data recovery software on your PC. Select your USB drive which marks as a removable disk, and click 'Scan' to start finding your lost files.

Step 2. Scan all lost files from USB.

EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard will thoroughly scan your USB flash drive and find all your lost data on it. After the scanning process, use the Filter feature to filter a specific file type. You can check and preview found USB files in this program.

Step 3. Restore all lost files from USB.

A double-click will allow you to preview the file results. Choose the target files and click 'Recover' to save them to a secure location on your PC or other external storage devices.

Remember to save the recovered data to another secure location on your computer.

#2. Format to Fix Bad Sectors and Speed Up USB

Drivers silicon image scsi & raid devices -. After getting the data, you can directly format the USB flash drive to gain a faster transfer speed. Here are the steps to format the USB device so to fix soft bad sectors and speed it up:

• Step 1: Connect USB to your PC and open'This PC'.
• Step 2: Locate and right-click on USB drive, select 'Format'.
• Step 3: Set the file system as 'NTFS', click 'Start', tick 'Quick Format' and click 'OK' to format USB.

Close the format window when the process completes. After this, you'll get a faster USB flash drive for file transfer. And you can save files back to your USB.

Method 3. Convert USB File System FAT32 to NTFS

Basically, most USB flash drives are set as FAT32 due to its high compatibility. However, as for the speed of file transfer, especially for transferring big files later than 4GB, NTFS works better.

Download Slower Traffic Keep Right (stkr) Usb Devices Driver Update

Therefore, if your USB drive is FAT32 now, you can convert FAT32 to NTFS to increase your USB transfer speed.

Tollow the steps below to convert USB from FAT32 to NTFSimmediately with CMD command line:

• Step 1: Click on'Start' and enter cmd.
• Step 2: Right-click 'Command Prompt' and choose 'Run as administrator'.
• Step 3: Type convert E: /fs:ntfs and hit 'Enter'. (Replace E: with the drive letter of your USB drive.)

Method 4. Optimize the Performance of USB

By optimizing the performance of your USB flash drive, you may have the chance to make its transfer speed faster. Here are the steps:

• Step 1: Right-click on the 'Windows' icon and select 'Device Manager'.
• Step 2: Expand 'Disk drives' in Device Manager, find your USB device, right-click on your USB device and choose 'Properties'.
• Step 3: Go to the 'Policies' tab, check 'Better performance', then click 'OK' to confirm that you want to optimize and improve your USB transfer speed.

After this, you can reboot your computer and then you should be able to use your USB drive and get a faster transfer speed by then.

Method 5. Update USB Drive Driver or Its Chipset Drivers

If you are using a laptop, the USB port you are using is usually connected to the chipset. Thus, if you want to want to solve the problem of 'USB transfer speed slow', you can try to update the USB driver or the chipset driver.

#1. To update USB driver:

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• Step 1: Connect USB to PC, right-click 'This PC', select 'Manage' and click 'Device Manager'.
• Step 2: Expand 'Disk Drives'. Right-click your USB drive and choose 'Update driver'.
• Step 3: Shoose 'Scan automatically for updated driver software'.

#2. To update the USB chipset driver:

• Step 1: Connect USB to your PC, right-click the Windows icon, and select 'Device Manager'.
• Step 2: Expand 'System devices' and double-click the Intel chipset device in the list.
• Step 3: Switch to the 'Driver' tab and click 'Update Driver'.

Method 6. Enable USB 3.0 Drive in BIOS

Generally, the USB 3.0 port is enabled by default. If you have a USB 3.0 or 3.1 USB drive, but the USB transfer speed is slow, you should check and make sure the USB 3.0 is enabled in BIOS:

• Step 1:Restart your computer, press F2/Del keys to enter BIOS.
• Step 2: In BIOS, use the left and right arrow keys to choose the 'Advanced' tab.
• Step 3: Use the up and down arrow keys to choose 'USB Configuration' and hit 'Enter'.
• Step 4: If the option 'USB 3.0 (or 2.0) Support' is disabled, use the arrow keys to choose it and hit 'Enter'.
• Step 5: In the Options window, select 'Enabled' and press 'Enter'.
• Step 6: Press 'F10' to save the changes and exit BIOS.

Wait for your computer to boot into Windows as normal and you can reconnect your USB for file transferring again. If the USB support option is previously disabled, turning it on will greatly speed up your USB transfer.

The Bottom Line

Nowadays, most users use the USB 3.0 port, which has a maximum transfer speed of 400MB per second. If your computer USB port is too old (such as USB 1.1) while your USB is 3.1 or even higher level, it will highly slow down your USB speed. Switching to a new computer is a wise choice.

Honestly, when your USB transfer speed is slow, the most effective way to boost the transfer speed is in Method 1, 2, and 4. Mover, if you are still using USB 2.0, it's a good choice to switch to USB 3.0 instead.

No matter which tips you choose to fix the USB slow transfer rate error, it's important to back up your USB file first. As for the lost USB data, EaseUS Data Recovery Wizard is always ready to help.

People Also Ask About USB Slow Transfer Speed

Some of you may have more concerns about increasing USB transfer speed. Check out the questions and find answers below:

1. Why does USB transfer speed fluctuate?

As explained above, the USB transfer speed may get infected by many factors. Basically, there are the reasons why the USB transfer speed fluctuates:

• Read/write speed differs between computer and USB.
• The size of the transferred files differ. (Smaller files are faster to be transferred.)
• The difference between the computer USB port and your USB type. (USB 2.0 port slows USB 3.0 flash drive transfer rate.)

2. Does USB cable affect transfer speed?

Basically, the transfer speed of a USB is highly based on the following factors:

1. 1. USB type - USB 3.1/3.0/2.0
2. 2. The speed of computer RAW and hard disk speed.
3. 3. The CPU speed.

3. How long does it take to transfer a file size of 1GB on a USB 2.0 and a USB 3.0 drive?

Accordingly, the transfer speed of 1GB file to USB 2.0 is much slower than transferring to USB 3.0:

• Transfer 1GB files to USB 3.0 - 18 seconds;
• Transfer 1GB files to USB 2.0 - 3 mins 18 seconds.